From Sketches to Stage The Princess Sirivannavari and Theatrical Costume Design for Madama Butterfly Opera in Bangkok celebrating the auspicious 72th Anniversary of H.M. King Rama X
The opera performance “Madama Butterfly” features costumes by SIRIVANNAVARI, with Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya as the Creative Director, who designed a total of 14 costumes for the 9 main characters, both male and female. Additionally, the brand team created another 40 costumes, all under the concept of designer elements. The design concept is divided into two groups: Japanese and Westerners. For the first group, the costumes are derived from the SIRIVANNAVARI Spring/Summer 2022 collection, “The Rise of Asia.”, inspired by the grandeur of Rising Sun culture and is enhanced with elegant embroidery, emphasizing voluminous shapes. The latter group is designed according to authentic Japanese tradition with a twist, while the Western clothes are contemporary outfits enhanced with intricate details. These designs are distinguished by exquisite embroidery from master craftsmen at SIRIVANNAVARI Atelier & Academy. Additionally, the costumes for the supporting actors on stage contribute to making the opera more complete and spectacular. Costumes play a significant role in conveying cultural differences and the class of the characters. They act symbolically, with colors, textures, character roles, and fabric patterns all profound with important meanings that contribute to the storytelling of the play.
Madam Butterfly or Cio-Cio San
The designer created three costumes for the heroine character, representing different periods. They express the enchanting charm of traditional Japanese women’s clothing, inspired by geisha attire. The costumes feature layered garments with a loose structure, and use a waist sash or obi to define the shape.
The costumes 1 and 2 feature cream-colored robes, symbolizing a young woman’s coming of age. These robes are sewn from Jacquard fabric, commonly used in haute couture design, and are woven with a beautiful and exquisite white iris flower pattern. The obi is crafted from a white, transparent fabric and is adorned with three-dimensional embroidery in the shape of thousands of cherry blossoms. Additionally, there is a strapless dress embroidered with sequins and crystals, completing the traditional Japanese woman’s outfit, making a strong first impression on the Western hero.
The third one features an organdy outer layer worn over a solid fabric overcoat. This white-toned ensemble is used in a scene filled with sadness and disappointment, ultimately leading her to take her own life. The robe is striking with large white crane embroidery, symbolizing the spreading of wings and the flight of life.
B.F. Pinkerton
The first uniform of an American soldier stationed in Japan is introduced in the scene. This uniform is an international suit made from linen, suitable for the weather in Asia. It features the neatness of double buttons, and the sleeve area is embroidered with lines resembling those on military uniforms. This allows the viewer to interpret the significance of the emblem.
The second costume is worn when the soldier returns to the heroine after three years. He reappears in a blue and white striped outfit that matches his new wife Kate Pinkerton’s attire. The left collar is adorned with iris embroidery, the symbol of SIRIVANNAVARI.
Suzuki
The first outfit for the maid is intricately decorated with a woven robe in beige tones and glittering gold, featuring a floral pattern all over. It is meticulously embroidered in the shape of three-dimensional peonies, adorned around both shoulders and the chest. The ensemble is completed with an obi girded at the waist, worn over an embroidered halter top and pants.
The second outfit consists of a jacquard robe in light gold tones, woven throughout the piece. This design is inspired by the archival Spring/Summer 2022 collection. It is intricately embroidered with three-dimensional peony flowers on both shoulders and the chest.
Kate Pinkerton
The outfit for the new wife of B.F. Pinkerton is crafted from a deep blue jacquard fabric with a luxurious silver sheen that catches the light. The suit has a clear, defined outline, featuring the IRIS Jacket, the symbol of the SIRIVANNAVARI, reinterpreted as a theatrical costume.
A suit with accentuated shoulders and a cicnched waist reflects a Western identity, indicating the character’s background. The embroidery adorning the dress features English roses and butterflies, revealing a culture that contrasts with the heroine’s. The skirt is designed in a fishtail shape, emphasizing the woman’s figure and giving her a more modern appearance.
Sharpless
A young American who travels with the hero, is introduced in a dark blue tone suit. The double-breasted design exudes elegance, reflecting the style of a Western man. The left collar area is adorned with peony embroidery. The second outfit features the same double-breasted design in a cream-toned suit.
Yamadori
The prince’s outfit exudes Japanese elegance, crafted from beige jacquard fabric and adorned with luxurious gold-toned patterns, reflecting traditional Japanese aristocratic clothing. Thai silk is incorporated into the mix, and the harmonious color tones complement the actress’s outfit perfectly.
Bonzo
Bonzo’s outfit, in the role of a Japanese priest, is simple yet elegant. It features a traditional Japanese design robe, paired with a yellow robe. The ensemble is delicately crafted with pleated fabric that cascades down in layers. It is sewn from a blend of Thai silk and cotton fabric.
Goro
The matchmaker’s outfit features red tones crafted from luxurious jacquard fabric, adorned with exquisite gold-plated patterns. It is paired with brown pants, tied at the waist.
Commissario
The ensemble of the commissioner is beautifully composed with various elements. It includes a vest-like coat in green tones, made from a blend of jacquard and twill, exquisitely woven with patterns. The addition of comfortable cotton fabric enhances wearability. Light-colored undershirts and underwear complement and enhance the look of the vest.
Supporting Casts
The supporting cast’s costumes are rich in intricate details, reflecting the Japanese culture of wearing multiple layers of clothing. Beautiful fabrics with various patterns are carefully selected to create drama when illuminated by stage lights. Each character’s attire is colorful and harmonious, enhancing movement and adding dynamic visuals to various postures during the performance.
The loose-fitting Japanese-style robes feature varying colors and fabric patterns for each character. The mother is dressed in gray tones, while the aunt and cousin share beige tones with a golden glimmer. The fabric patterns complement the details of each outfit. The robes are crafted from solid fabric mixed with different patterned sheer fabrics. The waist area is adorned with an obi, which is tightened to shape the dress and tied with a bow over another layer. The halter top and skirt have similar fabric patterns, creating a cohesive look.
The Son
The outfit consists of a yukata in shades of gray, paired with an obi around the waist. The simple design of the dress is accentuated by the fabric’s pattern.
The Official Registrar
Uffcio del Registo’s outfit features an outer robe matching the color of the undershirt. This ensemble stands out with the patterned pants. The obi and bow ties in darker tones and patterns add a three-dimensional look to the outfit.
Geishas
The costumes for the geisha roles are still full of meticulous details. There are several geishas in the story, and each outfit shares the same elements: an outer robe, an undershirt, a skirt, an obi, and a bow. The colors are harmonious and inspired by traditional Japanese women’s clothing. The patterns that adorn each geisha’s outfit are unique, adding charm and creating a spectacular visual when the geishas gather together on the performance scene.
Servants
Just like the geishas, the servants’ outfits are decorated in a color scheme that matches the main Japanese actors. Each set includes a robe, puffed pants, and a bow tied over a blazer. The highlight is the variety of fabric patterns, which make each outfit look unique. This variety creates a sense of realism when all the characters are in a scene together.
Chorus
For the opera choir, which plays an important role despite not having acting roles, there are as many as 28 people in this story. Regarding costumes, the outfits for the chorus are white, creating an atmospheric effect. The beauty lies in the layers of fabric that flow and overlap. The ensemble consists of a patterned outer coat worn with an obi, and a long-sleeved shirt in a plain color that complements the pants.
